Here is the gallery of each block, to show you the fabrics we used in our Australian sampler.
Watch this space for Ann’s construction of her Australian Sampler. We’ll get it posted the week of May 16, 2016. If you’ve purchased the kit, or if you just want to give it a go with your own choice of fabrics, you should check out these photos for help and inspiration.
By the way, this photo is of the color wall that Ann put together in order to choose her fabrics for the sampler. Ann knows color, that’s for sure.
Here’s the pattern for the quilt–Patchwork Sampler–which you can get by clicking here.
Border 5 – Courthouse Steps
For this border, I found it tedious to cut the various strips for the blocks. It seems I did nothing but cut and sub-cut strips for several days. Again, I like the contrast between the background fabric and the feature fabric to really stand out.
I changed the background of my design wall. Brian thought the red background overshadowed the quilt. This is the quilt so far, with some of the courthouse steps. I’m liking how it is turning out.
Here is the finished quilt, hanging up in my shop! I’m really pleased on how it turned out, and I hope you’re all pleased with your own.
I’ve sure enjoyed this quilt along, and hope you have, too. It’s amazing how unique each of our quilts are, using the same pattern.
Next Quilt Along will use the Green Tea and Sweet Beans pattern by Jen Kingwell. We’ll give details in an upcoming newsletter.
Border 4, Checkerboard
Well, the end is in sight (for me at least). It’s been fairly slow going, but you’re all doing great. I love seeing the photos you’ve posted to the Facebook Group page.
The pattern gives two options for the checkerboard border: You can cut (276) 1 ½” x 1 ½” squares of the secondary background and (276) 1 ½” x 1 ½” squares of a large variety of prints.
You can cut 1 ½” strips of background and 1 ½” strips of prints and sew them in sets of three and sub cutting at 1 ½” increments. If you alternate background/print/background and print/background/print, press seam to the background piece, these sections will nestle neatly together.
After piecing the checkerboard borders, I actually had to remove one section from each border to make them fit my quilt so far. Again, that elusive 1/4″ seam. Remember, the pattern writer usually designs and makes the quilt while she is writing the pattern. The measurements she gives are for her borders, blocks etc. I would bet money that if we compared our finished quilt sizes at the end, we will have multiple variations. Remember, no quilt police here.
Next session is on February 2, 2015
Homework – finish Checkerboard border.
Border 3: Churn Dash
Well, using these blocks to make borders that need to fit really requires some finagling the end product, doesn’t it?
The best advice I can offer for the churn dash block is to make sure the value of your background is different than the value of the feature fabric. Wherever possible, I kept the background fabric and feature fabric uniform for each block. I also wanted the background to be lighter than the feature fabric.
I cut (2) 1 – 7/8″ squares of background, (2) 1 – 7/8″ squares of feature, (1) 1″ x 6″ strip of background, and (1) 1″ x 6″ strip of feature fabric, and (1) 1 ½” square of background fabric.
I made the corner pieces as indicated, but I sewed the 1″ strips together and sub cut into 1 ½” sections.
Continue to make (52) 3 ½” blocks.
Next Session is on January 9, 2015 Border 4: Checkerboard
Homework: finish churn dash border.
You all said that I should post the next session even though most of you weren’t up to this point. I’ll keep the sessions up until everyone is completed.
Border 2: Applique Vine
Before going farther, I need to confess that I had to adjust the size of my orange peel borders. I have found in many patterns, my 1/4″ seam will vary from the pattern maker’s 1/4″ seam slightly. Even if I vary as small as 1/16″ of an inch; with as many seams as we are working with, that 1/16″ can really add up. No Worries, before you add a border, make sure you measure the section you are adding the border to three times. When you are adding the left side border, measure the left side of the piece, the center and the right side. Add the three measurements and divide by three. This will give the average size and that is the measurement you use for the length of both side borders. Add the side borders and then measure again: top, center and bottom. Find that average and use it for both the top and bottom borders. Repeat this for every border you add.
This may sound like an annoying extra step, but it will be well worth the effort. This quilt has a lot of borders, and each border is made up of small blocks with many seams each. Don’t be that quilter whose quilt is lop sided or doubles as a “D” cup bra when you lie it flat!
Having said that, begin by cutting (4) 5 ½” x 25 ½” strips (or whatever your sides and top borders measure out to be) of the primary background fabric.
The pattern calls for a 3/8″ bias tape maker. If you don’t have one, you can press your 1″ strips lengthwise with wrong sides together and stitch a 1/8″ seam along the edge. Press seam to one side on the back so you can sew it down with the seam hidden under the vine.
Cut out the other applique pieces G, H, & I and the leaves for this border. I made (10) G pieces, (20) H pieces, (55) I pieces and (15) leaves.
Arrange vines in a free form manner on the border background. At each edge of the border, extend the vines an additional 2″ or so. The vine on both ends of the borders extend past the edge several inches so you can stitch these pieces of vine over the basket handles in the corners.
Arrange the flowers, and leaves over the vines on border background and applique. Save (4) flowers to put in the corner baskets.
The corner baskets call for (8) 1 – 7/8″ squares for each basket for a total of (32). Cut each square in half diagonally and stitch them together randomly for a scrappy look.
Once you assemble the baskets, cut (4) 5 ½” x 5 ½” square from the primary background. Measure down from the top corner 1 – 1/8″ and mark. Do the same on the bottom left corner. Cut from mark to mark.
Sew a border to each side of center square.
Stitch a basket on each side of the top and bottom borders, then sew the borders to the top and bottom of the square. The basket corners should be toward the inside.
Once the applique borders are finished, add the tiny borders as before:
Cut (2) 1″ x 35 ½” strips } Adjust if necessary.
Cut (2) 1″ x 36 ½” strips}
The next Session is on December 26 3rd Border : Churn Dash
Homework – finish applique border
Hi Everyone: Wow! You guys have been doing awesome work. There’s so much creativity and neat use of colors. I hope you’re having as much fun and are as challenged as I am. This quilt takes a lot of work! Anyway, here goes for the third session.
Border 1: Orange Peel
I decided to use lighter fabrics for each background. I chose 4 darker/medium fabrics in the same color family (whenever possible) for the orange peels.
Cut (20) 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares
(80) F templates using various prints. I found it easier to pin the four fabrics together and draw the template on the top one. I could then cut all four at the same time.
(I am using the same technique for applique for the whole project, so I won’t repeat those instructions again.)
Once you add this border, add the tiny border strips.
Cut: (2) strips 1″ x 24 ½”
(2) strips 1″ x 25 ½”
Next Session is on or about November 29 and will cover Border 2: Applique Vine
Homework: Finish Orange Peel borders
We’re back from our fabulous trip to Israel, and I’ve prepared the second session of our Midnight at the Oasis quilt along. I hope you’ve all selected your fabrics, and are ready to get to work. And this quilt is quite a bit of work, I must say. Here we go!
Preparing templates for cutting:
The last page of the pattern are the templates that we’ll need to add 1/4″ seam allowance to before we use them to cut out the pieces.
I like to trace each shape onto template plastic with a Sharpie fine point permanent marker before I add the 1/4″ seam. It is easier for me to add the seam allowance when I have it already on the plastic.
As I mentioned at the beginning of the sew along, I encouraged you to read the entire pattern ahead of time. As I read about the center square, I decided not to cut the fabric of template E. Instead of piecing E to the four pointed star, I would rather cut a 15 ½” x 15 ½” square, and applique the star on that. This is my personal preference, if you want to piece, please do whatever technique you like best. (Obviously, I will need a little more fabric if I’m going to cut a larger piece of the primary background than the pattern calls for.)
Once my templates are ready, I need to decide the fabrics that I’ll use in the Center Square.
-Primary Background – one 15 ½” x 15 ½” square
-Multi red for small borders – template B
-C & D, I’m not too concerned, as long as they look pleasing.
-8″ x 8″ square for circle appliques – secondary background
When I’m ready to applique the circles (and eventually the four point star), I don’t want to needle turn and I don’t want raw edge applique. I have found a happy medium when I use a thin non-fuseable interfacing. The finished piece has a little more depth than using raw edge applique with Steam-A-Seam. Once you have your piece ready for applique, place it face down on the interfacing,
and stitch all the way around using a 1/4″ seam.
On curved pieces, clip up to, but not past the seam, so when you turn it right side out, it will lay flat. Make a small slit in the interfacing, and turn right-side out. Press so you can’t see the stabilizer.
Begin assembly of center Section.
Press lowest layer of A’s to left, next layer to right, then left again. This will allow your triangles to nest together more easily.
When you are piecing triangles, one of the most difficult steps is ensuring the points meet precisely. One way of doing this, is to insert a flat headed pin from the back of the second layer from the bottom at exactly the spot where the points of the triangles meet. Insert the pin through the point of the triangle you are piecing it to.
Pull the pieces together on the pin, and place a pin on either side of the seam to make sure it stays in place. I also like to put a dot on the seam where I want to be sure my stitch intersects. I will use the same applique technique for the star points
After you have made the star points, you will be ready to applique the circles (B, C, & D) onto the 8″ x 8″ center square. Find the center of your square by drawing diagonal lines from corner to corner.
Once you have you star on the center square, add the tiny borders.
Cut 2 strips 1″ x 15 ½” and stitch to top and bottom
Whew! That was a bit of work, wasn’t it?
Next session is on or about November 14 and will be about Border 1: Orange Peel
Homework: Finish Center Square
Hi everyone, and welcome to my first ever quilt along. I’ve tried to include as much information and hints as possible. I hope we all enjoy making this quilt together.
Overview and General Observations:
I encourage you to read all the instructions before you begin this project. You may find you have a better or different way of accomplishing the same thing.
One of the things I really like about Jen Kingwell’s patterns, she is a firm believer in using as many of the fabrics that you love in each quilt. She has said before, if you are using 6 fabrics, they really need to match. If you use 200, they really don’t need to. She uses two or three fabrics to hold everything together. In Midnight at the Oasis, she has used the black and gray polka dot, the gray and white check and the bright green inner border. The other consistent thing about the quilt is the outside border. Each block uses the polka dot and another fabric in concentric squares.
Whenever I begin a project, the first decision I need to make is what colors/fabrics to use.
If I see something in a magazine, book or pattern that I really like, I try to decide what I really like about it (or don’t like). Is it the colors, patterns, design, layout? Once I figure out what is drawing me to that project, the rest is pretty easy.
When I look at Midnight at the Oasis, I immediately like the overall layout and design. I like the value changes from section to section. The center square is dark, first border light, second border dark, next border light, then dark again. The outside border has the darker polka dot, but I don’t think it reads too dark. More of a medium.
What I don’t like is the black and gray polka dot that appears so prominently. I don’t like that you can’t see the applique vine and flowers, so I will change that for sure. In Jen’s pattern, she has used a complimentary gray and white check for the secondary background. I do like the check, so I’ll plan to use a check that works well with my new primary background.
The small borders that separate each border are consistent and super fun. Don’t know what I’ll use yet, but I definitely want something that stands by itself.
Fabric and Color Selection:
I decided to use a light red dot on white background for my primary fabric, and a fun red/white check for the secondary fabric. I tried several fabrics for the small borders and finally decided on this red/multi fabric.
The pattern calls for 2 – 1/4 yds of the primary background fabric.
3/4 yd. secondary background
1 yard for the tiny borders and binding.
The pattern calls for 2 to 2 – 5/8 yds of the feature fabrics. My fabric calculations turn out to be closer to 5 yards. If you are using fabrics from your stash, use whatever you have on hand. You won’t be concerned so much about how much you will need.
– If you choose to use fat sixteenths, plan to get a wide variety. Each yard has 16 fat sixteenths. So you should select 80 or so fabrics for your project.
– If you are planning to use fat eighths, each yard has 8, so you will need 45 or so.
I want a wide variety, so I have chosen 80 fat sixteenths. I have lots of dots, stripes and small floral patterns.
* Most of us are used to patterns that give us the number of strips we’ll need to make the blocks in the quilt. In this case, we will need to make (52) Churn Dash, (44) Courthouse Steps, and a Checker Board border. Since Jen is a hand piecer, she has you cut out each piece individually. For example, cut (276) 1 ½” x 1 ½ “ squares of background fabric, and (276) 1 ½” X 1 ½” squares of a large variety of prints for the checkerboard border. I am a machine piecer, and machine quilter. I will piece 1 ½” strips, alternating a [background, print, background] and subcut into 1 ½” sections to sections I have cut from a [print, background, print] strip set.
Since we are not given the number of strips for each block, I recommend cutting the strips for piecing before you cut out your applique pieces. This way, you will know exactly how much you can use of each for your applique pieces. I guestimate the following number of strips to cut from each print, but as I say, we may need more when we get there.
From each fat 16th, cut the following strips:
(2) 1 – 7/8″ x 9″ strips – these will be used for the churn dash corners
(2) 1 ½” x 9″ strips – these will be used for the checkerboard border along with your secondary border, and the centers of your churn dash blocks.
(5) 1″ x 9″ strips – you need (2) 1″ x 9″ strips for the churn dash blocks, and (3) 1″ x 9″ for each courthouse steps block along with 1″ strips of the primary background.
You will also need about 20 or so 1″ x 6″ strips to be used as the vines in the 2nd border.
The next Sew Along post will be on October 31 and will be about preparing templates for cutting.
Your homework will be to make your fabric selections.
We’ve been wanting to do a Quilt Along for awhile, and we love Jen Kingwell designs, so this was a perfect match. This will be the first quilt along we’ve done, so please be patient with us.
This will be a fairly relaxed QAL (quilt along). I will be posting about every two weeks about my experience and suggestions in constructing the center block, borders and finishing work. Like every other project I tackle, there will be a lot of improvisation and throwing the printed instructions out the window. You’ll find that I love to make beautiful quilts and I’m willing to try just about anything to make it work. When I run into a technique I’m not sure about, I give it a try. If it doesn’t work for me, I find an easier way to accomplish the task. I’ll be sharing those tips with you.
How it works. We’ll publish a series of posts detailing each step in the process. You can quilt along with us, ask questions, and share your techniques and advice with others. You can follow along at our speed or go at your own pace as posts will remain on this blog even after the quilt along has been completed.
Schedule of Posts
- October 17th — Ann’s Overview and General Observations on the pattern, including Fabric and Color Selection.
- October 31 — Constructing the center section including templates, piecing triangles, applique of circles, and more.
- November 14 –Border one.
- Ann is still working on the pattern, so there will be additional posts for the other borders, etc.
Purchasing the Pattern
We have plenty of patterns available in our store. You can shop online by clicking here
So, are you anxious to join us in making this amazing quilt? We would love to have you join us!