Bakers Dozen: Quilt Along With HeartSong Quilts Month 4

Baker’s Dozen Block of the Month

Month 4 – (4) Jewel Box Blocks and (8) Checkerboard Blocks

Hello, everyone!  We will now begin the blocks consisting of the second border.  You can sew the center blocks, inner border and the first border with the blocks from the first three months.  I like the fact that we can build the quilt as we go.

This month, we will be making (4) Jewel Box blocks found on pages 14 & 15; and (8) Checkerboard blocks found on pages 15 & 16.

Jewel Box Block:  The drawing in the pattern makes this look like a square, it is not.  The templates are diamonds or triangles.

Once again, I suggest you lay out the pieces, and sew each section.

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Watch those sneaky T6 corner pieces…I kept sewing them the wrong way around.

Here are my Jewel Box Blocks:

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Checkerboard Block:  The pattern tells us to cut 42 –  1 ½” squares for each block!  That’s 336 – 1 ½” squares!  Not for this girly I can tell you that.  I cut 1 ½” strips and sewed six of them side by side, then sub cut and sewed these together to make my blocks.  I made several strip sets, so it was plenty scrappy for me.

I made four from page 15, and four from page 16.

Finished Checkerboard Blocks:

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Thanks everyone for posting your progress. So fun to see the blocks.

Until next time, keep yourselves in stitches!

Ann

 

Delilah: Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts Month 11

Delilah Month 11–Princess Cut; make 9 blocks.

Hi Everyone and Happy New Year!  Hope you all had a wonderful Holiday and a break from all that the world throws at you.

We are almost done with this amazing quilt, but what a fun journey it has been for me,

This month we make 9 Princess Cuts.

First things first — there is a correction to the pattern under CUTTING.

The first line reads: Cut 4 x T32.  Please change your pattern to read: Cut 8 x T42.  That’s it, probably a little typo.

You could go ahead and use the T42 template, but it is a 45 degree angle, so if you cut  a 2–5/8” x 2-5/8” square, then cut diagonally 2 times, you will get four 45 degree triangles. Cut a second 2-5/8” square and you have eight triangles for the center of the block.

With all the points in this block, pressing is super important.  Just remember to press the seams of T45/T44/T43/T42 to the left.  Press T45 Rev/T44/T 43 Rev/T42 to the right and all should be well.

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Press seams open when you join these sections.

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Finished Blocks:

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Thanks for with sticking with us!

See you next month!

Bakers Dozen: Quilt Along With HeartSong Quilts Month 3

Baker’s Dozen Block of the Month

Month 3 – (4) Aircastle Star Blocks, (4) Combination Star Blocks, and Eight Willow Blocks

 

Hello Everyone, welcome back!

This month we are making the rest of the 6” blocks that will be used in the two borders that surround the center medallion blocks.

Aircastle Block, pages 9 & 10:  Confession time…I got really confused in reading the pattern, and trying to decide which fabrics to use and my color placement.  I drew a little cheat sheet with the pieces numbered to correspond with my fabrics and the sizes to cut each.  This really helped me.

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I also cut each piece for each block and arranged them in the appropriate place, before I began to sew.

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Here are my finished Aircastle Blocks:

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The next set of blocks will be the Combination Star Blocks, pages 11 & 12.  As in all the other blocks, lay out your cut pieces before you begin sewing.

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This blocks has triangle points that meet in the center of the block.

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If you have trouble with triangle points, I’ll show you how I keep my points “pointy”.  Insert a straight pin at the point of the first triangle, and then through the point of the second triangle.  Do this on each point to be joined.

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Pull the pin so it is straight and the two pieces are lined up together.  Put a pin on either side of the seam to hold that exact place tight.  When you sew this piece, do not remove the pins, but GO SLOWLY over the pins so the seam doesn’t shift.

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Finished Combination Star Blocks:

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The last eight blocks we will make for this month will be Willow Block, page 13, which is a rectangle.  Finished blocks size will be 7 ¼” x 6”, but again, your finished block size may vary.  All of my blocks are measuring ¼” smaller.  The point is they are ALL measuring ¼” smaller, so they will fit together beautifully in the finished quilt.

You will need to cut templates for this block.  Sadly, none of the triangles are 60 degrees or 45 degrees.  I did discover that by cutting a 3 ¾” x 4 ¾” rectangle and cutting it diagonally we can make two T8 triangles.  Make another 3 ¾”x 4 ¾” rectangle and cut it diagonally the opposite way to get two T8 reversed triangles.  Of course, if you want four fabrics for each corner, you’ll have to cut them one at a time.

The Willow Block has two options so I’m going to make four of each.

The first version of this block has the two diamond points meeting at the center.  For this reason, I have pressed one set of seams toward the center, and the opposite set of seams toward the outside.  This will allow you to “snuggle” your seams together for a perfect fit.

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Use the same technique with a straight pin at the points on both diamonds.  You’ll be able to feel the seams and just make sure they line up properly.

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First four Willow Blocks:

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Luckily the alternate version of this block is much simpler, no points to align. Yippee!

Here they are:

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Thanks to all of you who are sharing your blocks on our Facebook page. Have fun and see you all next month!

Xox,

Ann

Delilah: Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts Month 10

Delilah, Month 10 – Mayflower, Make 9 Blocks total

Hi everyone, we’re getting close to the finish line!

There is a “Y” seam in this block, but after all the blocks we’ve done, this is a piece of cake.

Just a couple of notes:

T-40 IS a 60 degree triangle, so it won’t matter which point you use as the center.

T-41 IS a half square triangle, so you could cut (2) 2 – 7/78” x 2 – 7/8” squares, cut diagonally to make (4) half square triangles.

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Other than that, I can’t really add anything other than my finished blocks:

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See you next month,

Ann

Bakers Dozen: Quilt Along With HeartSong Quilts Month 2

Baker’s Dozen Block of the Month

Month 2 – Another Star Block/Hand of Friendship

Hi Everyone!  Ready for more blocks?

This month, we are piecing twelve of the ‘Another Star Block’ found in the pattern booklet just after ‘8 Pointed Star’.  The pattern has an alternate layout that I also like, so I decided to make six of each.  We will also be making eight ‘Hand of Friendship’ blocks.  These will become part of the first ‘border’ around the center four blocks.  This way, you can build the quilt as we finish the blocks that go into each of the borders.

Another Star Block – make a total of 12.  I made six of the original pattern (page 5), and six of the alternate (page 7).

This block is not difficult, but the way it is pieced can be confusing.  Just take your time and make sure your pieces are where they should be before you stitch.  Check twice, sew once.

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In constructing the block. I pressed all my pieces away from the center.  The only section that I pressed toward the center was the middle section as I finished piecing the block.  I pressed toward the center so my seams would sandwich nicely when I added the two outside pieces.

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Here are the first six blocks:

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Another Star Block – alternate pattern

Once I started working on the alternate layout, I realized it would be a little more work as I had to line up the seam in the center piece with the point on the outside corner piece where the triangles meet.  I marked the seam allowance on the back of the center piece.  Then I inserted a pin at that mark from the back through the intersection of the triangles on the corner piece.  Now I am certain the seams will line up perfectly.

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Here are the second set of six blocks:

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Hand of Friendship Star Block – make 8

Some of the blocks in Jen’s original quilt used only three fabrics, sort of refreshing for a change.  I think I’ll do a few scrappier blocks because I only have small pieces of background fabric left.

Again, to avoid confusion and un-sewing, I highly suggest cutting the pieces for each block one at a time, and lay them on your work surface in the order you want them in in the final block.  If you have a cell phone, you might want to take a picture of each block as you work on it.  You can always delete these pictures when you no longer need them for reference.

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Just a quick look at the first two blocks I’ve finished.  I do like the scrappier block, so I’m going to try to use up my little pieces of background fabric.

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Here are my final Hand of Friendship Blocks:

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Thanks, everyone.  Have fun with these and I’ll be back next month.

Delilah: Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts Month 9

Delilah, Month 9–Sprinkled Delight, Make 9

Hello everyone, this month we are starting to make the 6” blocks.  We need nine Sprinkled Delight blocks, and they are small curves.

I am going to begin by saying, ARGH!

Okay, now that I got that out of my system, I can move on.

The first block, I pieced as Jen shows in the pattern.  Sadly, it came out lopsided.

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After several attempts, I finally decided to piece the whole center, half the circle, and half the outside of the block.

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It was easier for me to piece the larger curve in a longer section.

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Finally, I appliqued the center circle over the center of the block.

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I hope the purists will forgive me, but for me it is more important how it looks, not the process of getting there.  Especially when I would have had to un-sew as many times as I would have had to with this block.

I really enjoyed the fabric selection for these blocks:

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Thank you all, see you next time!

Bakers Dozen: Quilt Along with HeartSong Quilts Month 1

Bakers Dozen Block of the Month, 6 Month Program

Month 1 and Introduction; 11″  8 pointed star blocks–make 4

Hello all and welcome to our newest Block of the Month featuring the Fabulous Jen Kingwell’s Bakers Dozen.

The quilt requires a total of 8 yards of fabric for the blocks, 7/8 yard for the inner border and binding.  The breakdown of fabric for each month is as follows:

Month 1 ~ 2 yards : 8 fat 8ths, 16 fat 16ths.  7/8 yards for inner border and binding.

You will also receive your backing fabric if you ordered it                                                  when you registered.

Month 2 ~ 2 yards: 8 fat 8ths, 16 fat 16ths.

Month 3 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.

Month 4 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.

Month 5 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.

Month 6 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.

You will have a large variety to work with in the first 2 months.  I will post my blocks at the beginning of each month with lots of pictures and any helpful information as I make my mistakes and learn from them before you do.

Please join our Baker’s Dozen Facebook group (Bakers Dozen Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts) and show us your progress.  You’ll make some wonderful friends and get some great tips and advice.  Just asking for positive feedback.  We really want to encourage and praise each other!

Before we begin, I want to remind you that there is NO perfect ¼” seam.  Each machine is different, and each quilter is different.  As long as you use the same machine to piece every seam, your finished quilt will come together perfectly.  So please don’t fret if your block doesn’t measure what Jen’s does.  If each of your 8 Pointed Star Block 11” finishes at the same size, they will all fit as they should in the finished quilt.

 

8 Pointed Star Block 11”

I started by choosing the fabric for and cutting my diamond pieces.  Once they were pieced, I added the setting triangles.  Since this involves a ‘Y’ seam, I’d like to do a quick tutorial on partial seams.

Partial Seams & ‘Y’ seams:

There are templates printed on pages 36 – 39 in the pattern booklet.  You can make your own templates with plastic.  We also have acrylic templates available on our website.

If you are tracing the template onto plastic, make sure you mark the corners of the template.  I poke a hole through the plastic with a safety pin so I can also mark my fabric.

Start by piecing the center star. With your needle in the ‘down’ position (if you have that option) sew from the end of the diamond and stop at the first mark.  I like to take one backstitch to secure this point, and you don’t have so many loose threads flapping around.

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If you discover that you’ve overstitched, you can remove a stitch or two by pulling the last backstitch out.  Sew two diamonds in the first go round, and press all the seams the same way for each set.  Your seams will nest together nicely this way.

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Before sewing all my diamond sets together, I’m going to insert the triangle between each of the two points, using a ‘Y’ seam.  First, draw your seam lines on the back of each triangle.

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Lay the diamond set right side up on your work table, and fold the right diamond piece (including the seam) down and out of the way, securing it with a pin.

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Position the triangle over the left diamond piece, lining up the seams.  Lift up the bottom corner of the triangle (where we will stop sewing at the diamond set seam) and mark that seam on the triangle.  You can feel it with your marking pencil.

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Sew to this point, and take one backstitch.

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Take your needle out, press seam toward diamond and lay your unit on your work surface.  This helps you visually so you can fold the left diamond out of the way to sew the other seam.

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Now you see that the triangle is slightly larger than what I have actually sewn.  Does this bother me? Heck, no.  The left edge of my pieces line up, which is going to make the ‘Y’ seam lay flat.  If I try to even up both sides, I’ll distort that seam, and it will be puckered.

And Voila!

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Please notice in the close up photo, the edge of the triangle overlaps the diamond piece, but the seam lays flat.  Will my finished block be slightly smaller and consequently the final quilt be smaller?  Yes, but my blocks will be the same size if I continue to piece the same way, so I’m okay with that.

Set In Corner Blocks with Partial Seams

Mark the seam allowances on the back of the set-in square.  Using a straight pin, match the corner marks of the square with diamond set.

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Fold the right diamond piece and seam out of the way, line up the seams on the right edge of the square.  Look for the existing seam on the diamond set and mark it on the square.  Sew to this point and do one backstitch.

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Press seam toward corner piece, then lay it on the work surface to see how it will fit together.  Fold left diamond (and all seams) out of the way, and match edges to sew.

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And here’s the finished set-in corner block.

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For the corners of each block, I cut (16) 4 ½” squares of foundation paper to paper piece 4 blocks. As I was drawing diagonal lines on the third square I had a Duh! moment.  I started dreading the thousands of lines I would be drawing for the whole quilt.  I decided to draw two 4 ½” squares on a piece of paper and draw the diagonal lines on both squares, then make 8 copies!  That way you are only drawing diagonal lines for two blocks instead of 16!  Several of the blocks have paper pieced corners, but they are larger.  Let’s cross that bridge when we get there.

Before I pieced the corner pieces, I basted around the block to keep the seams from separating.

Here are my 11” Eight Pointed Star Blocks:

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Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts Month 8

Delilah, Month 8 — Coloured Turbine, Make 4

Hi Guys!  Hope this finds you well.

Coloured Turbine has been problematic for me.  It took me three tries to finally get the color placement I wanted.  I kept trying different dark/light/medium configurations.  As a result, I cut LOTS of T34 and T34 reversed.  Instead of cutting additional T34’s I used the reversed pieces where the other pieces should be and vice versa.  So, some of my finished blocks will be a mirror image of the layout in the pattern.  In fact, looking at a picture of Jen’s actual quilt, all of her Coloured Turbine blocks are reversed from the pattern layout.

Having said all that, there is one important point that I want to make before we go any further.  T35 is NOT a 60 degree triangle.  Do whatever you need to do to make this obvious as you piece the block.  I put a heavy mark on the longer part of the triangle.
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I would also suggest that you lay out the pieces, then sew section by section.  This will be a much slower process, but you’ll be so much happier you did.  Un-sewing is not fun!

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Here are my finished blocks.  The top two are “reversed” from the pattern layout.

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Have fun!  See you next month!

Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts Month 7

Month 7–Four Patch Star, Make 4

I love the first sentence of Jen’s instruction:  ”this is a relatively complex block…”.  What does she call the killers we’ve done before now?

That said, we can do this!

When I am sewing a ‘Y’ seam, I like to leave a ¼” seam allowance, and then take one backstitch.  I like to keep those seam ends sort of manageable.  If I need to, I just take a stitch or two from the end by pulling the loose threads out instead of seam ripping.

In the first section, T28/T29/T28 Rev, press seams away from center.
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In T27 squares, I always press toward dark.

For the next step, press seams toward center.  This may not make sense, but it was easier for me with the ‘Y’ seam to do this.

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Press center section away from center.

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Stitch the three rows together, leaving ¼” allowance at both ends.  Press toward center.

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Stitch the T31 pieces to main block first, then sew the mitred corner.  It makes it easier if the T31 pieces are in place.

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Here are my finished blocks:

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Good Luck, see you next month!

Ann

Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts Month 6

Month 6–In Orbit, Make 4

Hi All!  At first look, this seems like an easy one, but it was a lot trickier than I thought.  I hope some of my mistakes and un-sews help you avoid the same mistakes.

I always start by selecting fabrics, and then arrange to my liking on my design board.  I suggest marking ALL corner points on each template.  * Template T22 is not a 60 degree triangle, so be sure to mark the starred point so you know which way to piece it in the block.
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Read through the entire post to see the two alternate ways to construct these blocks.

 

The first block I made, I pieced it the way the pattern is written.  I made unit T24/T23/T22 (press toward T22) and unit T24 rev./T23 rev./T22 rev. (press toward T24 rev.)  These seams I stitched all the way to edge.  I found it too messy leaving ¼” at seams, so snipped threads at edges and pulled one or two stitches of seams where I had to do a “Y” seam.

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Then I made the T25/T26 unit and inserted the corner units to finish the block.

 

For the second (and remaining 3 blocks) I pieced the corner units, and then inserted just T25 for both the top and bottom of the block.  I pieced a T25/T26/T25 unit and joined it to the center of the block.  This seemed easier to me.  On this construction, I sewed up to each seam to be able to make that “Y” seam work.

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Here are my finished blocks:

 

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Have fun!  As usual, if you have any questions, call Ann at 605-745-5330.  See you next month!