Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts

Month 7–Four Patch Star, Make 4

I love the first sentence of Jen’s instruction:  ”this is a relatively complex block…”.  What does she call the killers we’ve done before now?

That said, we can do this!

When I am sewing a ‘Y’ seam, I like to leave a ¼” seam allowance, and then take one backstitch.  I like to keep those seam ends sort of manageable.  If I need to, I just take a stitch or two from the end by pulling the loose threads out instead of seam ripping.

In the first section, T28/T29/T28 Rev, press seams away from center.
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In T27 squares, I always press toward dark.

For the next step, press seams toward center.  This may not make sense, but it was easier for me with the ‘Y’ seam to do this.

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Press center section away from center.

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Stitch the three rows together, leaving ¼” allowance at both ends.  Press toward center.

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Stitch the T31 pieces to main block first, then sew the mitred corner.  It makes it easier if the T31 pieces are in place.

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Here are my finished blocks:

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Good Luck, see you next month!

Ann

Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts

Month 6–In Orbit, Make 4

Hi All!  At first look, this seems like an easy one, but it was a lot trickier than I thought.  I hope some of my mistakes and un-sews help you avoid the same mistakes.

I always start by selecting fabrics, and then arrange to my liking on my design board.  I suggest marking ALL corner points on each template.  * Template T22 is not a 60 degree triangle, so be sure to mark the starred point so you know which way to piece it in the block.
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Read through the entire post to see the two alternate ways to construct these blocks.

 

The first block I made, I pieced it the way the pattern is written.  I made unit T24/T23/T22 (press toward T22) and unit T24 rev./T23 rev./T22 rev. (press toward T24 rev.)  These seams I stitched all the way to edge.  I found it too messy leaving ¼” at seams, so snipped threads at edges and pulled one or two stitches of seams where I had to do a “Y” seam.

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Then I made the T25/T26 unit and inserted the corner units to finish the block.

 

For the second (and remaining 3 blocks) I pieced the corner units, and then inserted just T25 for both the top and bottom of the block.  I pieced a T25/T26/T25 unit and joined it to the center of the block.  This seemed easier to me.  On this construction, I sewed up to each seam to be able to make that “Y” seam work.

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Here are my finished blocks:

 

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Have fun!  As usual, if you have any questions, call Ann at 605-745-5330.  See you next month!

Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts

Month 5 – North Star, Make 5

I am thrilled to tell you that this block is Easy Peazy!  Compared to the first 4 months, you can sew this one with your eyes closed (almost)!  Also, these will finish at 9” instead of 12” like the previous months.

I decided to go less scrappy with these blocks, and I really like the way they turned out.

 

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There is no need for special information on this one, but I wanted to remind you of a basic lesson from Pressing 101:  press each segment to opposite sides to make your seams sandwich perfectly.

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These are my blocks:

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Next month:  No curves, but no walk in the park, either.  Have fun!

Delilah: Sew Along With HeartSong Quilts

Month 4:  Fairhaven.  Make 3

Okay, everyone, another block with small curved piecing. On this block, I did not cut the straight edges of the curved template (T16, T16 rev.)  ½” larger because there are no straight edges on the T17 template.  It seemed easier to line up the edges and go slowly.

If I didn’t tell you before, I will tell you now that it is easier to piece curves with the concave curve on the bottom and the convex curve on top.

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To make it easier to piece each section,                             Press the                                   press the T16/T17/T16 units toward                                   T16 rev./T17 rev./T16 rev.           outside of block.                                                                  units toward center of block:

Unfortunately, there will be  sections where eight corners meet and there is very little you can do to decrease the thickness.  Definitely press these seams open, and unless you are hand quilting, be sure your quilter (either yourself or a long arm quilter) is aware of these seams.  Strong needles have been known to break on these kinds of seams.

Here are my Fairhaven Blocks:

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I don’t know about you, But I thought these first four months were pretty tough.  Good news, next month’s block is a snap!

Delilah: Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts

Month 3 – Shooting Star.  Make two

This block has lots of points to match up, so I think it’s a good idea to mark the points of each piece.  Sometimes, I skip this step if it looks like straight piecing, but this block screams for accuracy!

Also, pay attention to which way you press seams that will join as you piece the block.  After piecing the three pieces (T12, T11, and T12 rev.), press both seams toward the outside.  The next three (T14, T13, and T14 rev.) will eventually meet in the center, so press two toward center and two toward the outside.

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Attach T15 and T15 rev. to sides of T13/T14 piece.  Press these seams in the same direction that you pressed the T13/14 pieces in the previous step,

The seams will cross each other because they are all at different angles, but this keeps all your seams from being in one place.

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In the last two steps, you will join the four pieces to make the finished block, these seams will fit nicely together with the seams pressed the right way.

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Here are my finished Shooting Star Blocks:

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Next month is another challenging block, but then there’s a bit of a break in month 5.  Keep at it:  this quilt is worth it!

Delilah: Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts

Month 2 – Bells Beach, Make Two

Did you use a 28mm or 18mm rotary cutter for your first month blocks? If not, how did it work for you with the 45mm cutter?  Seemed harder to cut for me so I used the smaller 28mm cutter.

Once again, we have a lot of small curved pieces in each block.  I’ve added ½” to each of the straight sides of each piece.  Trim the smaller blocks to 5 ½” x 5 ½” before you piece them to finish the block.

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The directions for the borders are in the pattern.  They’re pretty straightforward.

Remember, you’re going to be getting new fabrics each month, so feel free to use fabrics from the previous month.

My finished Bells Beach Blocks:

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I’m getting excited about this quilt!  I hope you are, too.  Jen’s patterns are a challenge, but I love how they turn out.

Delilah: Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts

Hi everyone! I’m so happy to be making Jen Kingwell’s latest pattern, Delilah, with all of you.
If you’ve ever made one of Jen’s quilts before, you’ll remember that she has always provided patterns to trace, but you had to add a ¼” seam to each one. Easy enough for straight lines, but many of the blocks are curved. Jen is a hand piecer and hand quilter, so she needed the actual size of the units she was piecing, and the seam allowance wasn’t so critical. The templates in this project include the ¼” seam allowance and make for a quilt ideally suited to machine piecing.

So, my plan for this Sew-A-Long is to give helpful hints, and take lots of pictures as we go along. If you have questions, post them or email us and we’ll respond as quickly as we can.
Pre-constuction tip: In addition to any quilting tool you are using, I would suggest adding a 28mm or 18mm rotary cutter. The 45mm will work, but it seems to be easier with the smaller blade.
Okay, let’s get started with Month 1 – Rising Sun Block, make two.
1st Tip: This pattern has small pieces with curves. Before you cut out your pieces, I’ve learned a handy trick from Pam Goecke Dinndorf at Aardvark Quilts. When I made Pam’s Bouja, her very helpful advice when cutting pieces with curves was to cut the straight edges of the pattern pieces 1” larger than the pattern/template calls for. This gives you some wiggle room since everyone’s ¼” seam varies depending on the machine or other unseen reasons. Since these pieces are small, I think an extra ½” on the straight sides should be plenty. Be sure you trace the actual template on the fabric and mark the center of the curves to be able to make sure they match in the end. Trim the small blocks to 3 ¼” x 3 ¼” before piecing the rest of the block.

 

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Notice how I’ve left an additional 1/2″ on the straight sides of the template.

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Once you piece the curves, cut off the extra 1/2″ allowance you left.

 

The other templates that are all straight edges (squares, rectangles, triangles) can be rotary cut as you would normally.

 

These are my finished Rising Sun Blocks:

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Have fun!  See you next month.

Australian Sampler Gallery

Here is the gallery of each block, to show you the fabrics we used in our Australian sampler.

Australian Sampler

color wallWatch this space for Ann’s construction of her Australian Sampler.  We’ll get it posted the week of May 16, 2016.  If you’ve purchased the kit, or if you just want to give it a go with your own choice of fabrics, you should check out these photos for help and inspiration.

By the way, this photo is of the color wall that Ann put together in order to choose her fabrics for the sampler.  Ann knows color, that’s for sure.

Here’s the pattern for the quilt–Patchwork Sampler–which you can get by clicking here.

Patchwork Sampler pattern--NOT made with aboriginals.  Wait until you see the difference.

Patchwork Sampler pattern–NOT made with aboriginals. Wait until you see the difference.