I am thrilled to tell you that this block is Easy Peazy! Compared to the first 4 months, you can sew this one with your eyes closed (almost)! Also, these will finish at 9” instead of 12” like the previous months.
I decided to go less scrappy with these blocks, and I really like the way they turned out.
There is no need for special information on this one, but I wanted to remind you of a basic lesson from Pressing 101: press each segment to opposite sides to make your seams sandwich perfectly.
These are my blocks:
Next month: No curves, but no walk in the park, either. Have fun!
Okay, everyone, another block with small curved piecing. On this block, I did not cut the straight edges of the curved template (T16, T16 rev.) ½” larger because there are no straight edges on the T17 template. It seemed easier to line up the edges and go slowly.
If I didn’t tell you before, I will tell you now that it is easier to piece curves with the concave curve on the bottom and the convex curve on top.
To make it easier to piece each section, Press the press the T16/T17/T16 units toward T16 rev./T17 rev./T16 rev. outside of block. units toward center of block:
Unfortunately, there will be sections where eight corners meet and there is very little you can do to decrease the thickness. Definitely press these seams open, and unless you are hand quilting, be sure your quilter (either yourself or a long arm quilter) is aware of these seams. Strong needles have been known to break on these kinds of seams.
Here are my Fairhaven Blocks:
I don’t know about you, But I thought these first four months were pretty tough. Good news, next month’s block is a snap!
This block has lots of points to match up, so I think it’s a good idea to mark the points of each piece. Sometimes, I skip this step if it looks like straight piecing, but this block screams for accuracy!
Also, pay attention to which way you press seams that will join as you piece the block. After piecing the three pieces (T12, T11, and T12 rev.), press both seams toward the outside. The next three (T14, T13, and T14 rev.) will eventually meet in the center, so press two toward center and two toward the outside.
Attach T15 and T15 rev. to sides of T13/T14 piece. Press these seams in the same direction that you pressed the T13/14 pieces in the previous step,
The seams will cross each other because they are all at different angles, but this keeps all your seams from being in one place.
In the last two steps, you will join the four pieces to make the finished block, these seams will fit nicely together with the seams pressed the right way.
Here are my finished Shooting Star Blocks:
Next month is another challenging block, but then there’s a bit of a break in month 5. Keep at it: this quilt is worth it!
Did you use a 28mm or 18mm rotary cutter for your first month blocks? If not, how did it work for you with the 45mm cutter? Seemed harder to cut for me so I used the smaller 28mm cutter.
Once again, we have a lot of small curved pieces in each block. I’ve added ½” to each of the straight sides of each piece. Trim the smaller blocks to 5 ½” x 5 ½” before you piece them to finish the block.
The directions for the borders are in the pattern. They’re pretty straightforward.
Remember, you’re going to be getting new fabrics each month, so feel free to use fabrics from the previous month.
My finished Bells Beach Blocks:
I’m getting excited about this quilt! I hope you are, too. Jen’s patterns are a challenge, but I love how they turn out.
Hi everyone! I’m so happy to be making Jen Kingwell’s latest pattern, Delilah, with all of you.
If you’ve ever made one of Jen’s quilts before, you’ll remember that she has always provided patterns to trace, but you had to add a ¼” seam to each one. Easy enough for straight lines, but many of the blocks are curved. Jen is a hand piecer and hand quilter, so she needed the actual size of the units she was piecing, and the seam allowance wasn’t so critical. The templates in this project include the ¼” seam allowance and make for a quilt ideally suited to machine piecing.
So, my plan for this Sew-A-Long is to give helpful hints, and take lots of pictures as we go along. If you have questions, post them or email us and we’ll respond as quickly as we can. Pre-constuction tip: In addition to any quilting tool you are using, I would suggest adding a 28mm or 18mm rotary cutter. The 45mm will work, but it seems to be easier with the smaller blade. Okay, let’s get started with Month 1 – Rising Sun Block, make two.
1st Tip: This pattern has small pieces with curves. Before you cut out your pieces, I’ve learned a handy trick from Pam Goecke Dinndorf at Aardvark Quilts. When I made Pam’s Bouja, her very helpful advice when cutting pieces with curves was to cut the straight edges of the pattern pieces 1” larger than the pattern/template calls for. This gives you some wiggle room since everyone’s ¼” seam varies depending on the machine or other unseen reasons. Since these pieces are small, I think an extra ½” on the straight sides should be plenty. Be sure you trace the actual template on the fabric and mark the center of the curves to be able to make sure they match in the end. Trim the small blocks to 3 ¼” x 3 ¼” before piecing the rest of the block.
Notice how I’ve left an additional 1/2″ on the straight sides of the template.
Once you piece the curves, cut off the extra 1/2″ allowance you left.
The other templates that are all straight edges (squares, rectangles, triangles) can be rotary cut as you would normally.
Watch this space for Ann’s construction of her Australian Sampler. We’ll get it posted the week of May 16, 2016. If you’ve purchased the kit, or if you just want to give it a go with your own choice of fabrics, you should check out these photos for help and inspiration.
By the way, this photo is of the color wall that Ann put together in order to choose her fabrics for the sampler. Ann knows color, that’s for sure.
Here’s the pattern for the quilt–Patchwork Sampler–which you can get by clicking here.
Patchwork Sampler pattern–NOT made with aboriginals. Wait until you see the difference.
For this border, I found it tedious to cut the various strips for the blocks. It seems I did nothing but cut and sub-cut strips for several days. Again, I like the contrast between the background fabric and the feature fabric to really stand out.
I changed the background of my design wall. Brian thought the red background overshadowed the quilt. This is the quilt so far, with some of the courthouse steps. I’m liking how it is turning out.
Here is the finished quilt, hanging up in my shop! I’m really pleased on how it turned out, and I hope you’re all pleased with your own.
I’ve sure enjoyed this quilt along, and hope you have, too. It’s amazing how unique each of our quilts are, using the same pattern.
Next Quilt Along will use the Green Tea and Sweet Beans pattern by Jen Kingwell. We’ll give details in an upcoming newsletter.
Well, the end is in sight (for me at least). It’s been fairly slow going, but you’re all doing great. I love seeing the photos you’ve posted to the Facebook Group page.
The pattern gives two options for the checkerboard border: You can cut (276) 1 ½” x 1 ½” squares of the secondary background and (276) 1 ½” x 1 ½” squares of a large variety of prints.
You can cut 1 ½” strips of background and 1 ½” strips of prints and sew them in sets of three and sub cutting at 1 ½” increments. If you alternate background/print/background and print/background/print, press seam to the background piece, these sections will nestle neatly together.
After piecing the checkerboard borders, I actually had to remove one section from each border to make them fit my quilt so far. Again, that elusive 1/4″ seam. Remember, the pattern writer usually designs and makes the quilt while she is writing the pattern. The measurements she gives are for her borders, blocks etc. I would bet money that if we compared our finished quilt sizes at the end, we will have multiple variations. Remember, no quilt police here.