Bakers Dozen Block of the Month, 6 Month Program
Month 1 and Introduction; 11″ 8 pointed star blocks–make 4
Hello all and welcome to our newest Block of the Month featuring the Fabulous Jen Kingwell’s Bakers Dozen.
The quilt requires a total of 8 yards of fabric for the blocks, 7/8 yard for the inner border and binding. The breakdown of fabric for each month is as follows:
Month 1 ~ 2 yards : 8 fat 8ths, 16 fat 16ths. 7/8 yards for inner border and binding.
You will also receive your backing fabric if you ordered it when you registered.
Month 2 ~ 2 yards: 8 fat 8ths, 16 fat 16ths.
Month 3 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.
Month 4 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.
Month 5 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.
Month 6 ~ 1 yard: 4 fat 8ths, 8 fat 16ths.
You will have a large variety to work with in the first 2 months. I will post my blocks at the beginning of each month with lots of pictures and any helpful information as I make my mistakes and learn from them before you do.
Please join our Baker’s Dozen Facebook group (Bakers Dozen Sew Along with HeartSong Quilts) and show us your progress. You’ll make some wonderful friends and get some great tips and advice. Just asking for positive feedback. We really want to encourage and praise each other!
Before we begin, I want to remind you that there is NO perfect ¼” seam. Each machine is different, and each quilter is different. As long as you use the same machine to piece every seam, your finished quilt will come together perfectly. So please don’t fret if your block doesn’t measure what Jen’s does. If each of your 8 Pointed Star Block 11” finishes at the same size, they will all fit as they should in the finished quilt.
8 Pointed Star Block 11”
I started by choosing the fabric for and cutting my diamond pieces. Once they were pieced, I added the setting triangles. Since this involves a ‘Y’ seam, I’d like to do a quick tutorial on partial seams.
Partial Seams & ‘Y’ seams:
There are templates printed on pages 36 – 39 in the pattern booklet. You can make your own templates with plastic. We also have acrylic templates available on our website.
If you are tracing the template onto plastic, make sure you mark the corners of the template. I poke a hole through the plastic with a safety pin so I can also mark my fabric.
Start by piecing the center star. With your needle in the ‘down’ position (if you have that option) sew from the end of the diamond and stop at the first mark. I like to take one backstitch to secure this point, and you don’t have so many loose threads flapping around.
If you discover that you’ve overstitched, you can remove a stitch or two by pulling the last backstitch out. Sew two diamonds in the first go round, and press all the seams the same way for each set. Your seams will nest together nicely this way.
Before sewing all my diamond sets together, I’m going to insert the triangle between each of the two points, using a ‘Y’ seam. First, draw your seam lines on the back of each triangle.
Lay the diamond set right side up on your work table, and fold the right diamond piece (including the seam) down and out of the way, securing it with a pin.
Position the triangle over the left diamond piece, lining up the seams. Lift up the bottom corner of the triangle (where we will stop sewing at the diamond set seam) and mark that seam on the triangle. You can feel it with your marking pencil.
Sew to this point, and take one backstitch.
Take your needle out, press seam toward diamond and lay your unit on your work surface. This helps you visually so you can fold the left diamond out of the way to sew the other seam.
Now you see that the triangle is slightly larger than what I have actually sewn. Does this bother me? Heck, no. The left edge of my pieces line up, which is going to make the ‘Y’ seam lay flat. If I try to even up both sides, I’ll distort that seam, and it will be puckered.
Please notice in the close up photo, the edge of the triangle overlaps the diamond piece, but the seam lays flat. Will my finished block be slightly smaller and consequently the final quilt be smaller? Yes, but my blocks will be the same size if I continue to piece the same way, so I’m okay with that.
Set In Corner Blocks with Partial Seams
Mark the seam allowances on the back of the set-in square. Using a straight pin, match the corner marks of the square with diamond set.
Fold the right diamond piece and seam out of the way, line up the seams on the right edge of the square. Look for the existing seam on the diamond set and mark it on the square. Sew to this point and do one backstitch.
Press seam toward corner piece, then lay it on the work surface to see how it will fit together. Fold left diamond (and all seams) out of the way, and match edges to sew.
And here’s the finished set-in corner block.
For the corners of each block, I cut (16) 4 ½” squares of foundation paper to paper piece 4 blocks. As I was drawing diagonal lines on the third square I had a Duh! moment. I started dreading the thousands of lines I would be drawing for the whole quilt. I decided to draw two 4 ½” squares on a piece of paper and draw the diagonal lines on both squares, then make 8 copies! That way you are only drawing diagonal lines for two blocks instead of 16! Several of the blocks have paper pieced corners, but they are larger. Let’s cross that bridge when we get there.
Before I pieced the corner pieces, I basted around the block to keep the seams from separating.
Here are my 11” Eight Pointed Star Blocks: